CULINARY BOOT CAMP: Five Days of Basic Training at the Culinary Institute of America. Hoboken, New Jersey, John Wiley & Sons: 2006 641.5 CULResidents of Hyde Park and food lovers refer to it affectionately as “the other C.I.A.” Located in a complex of red brick buildings that were built for the St. Andrews Military Academy, in the years after the American Revolution, the Culinary Institute of America overlooks the Hudson River not far from Springwood, the boyhood home of President Franklin Delano Roosevelt. In an area that boasts more historical sites than you could should a drumstick at, this still constitutes a big deal.Culinary boot camp is five intensive days of demonstrations, lectures and team cooking that enable self-taught home cooks (and that is most of us) to acquire the scientific framework and supervised practice to get consistent results from your efforts. While I haven’t attended the C.I.A. boot camp, I have toured the cooking school and eaten at the Institute’s restaurants where student chefs cook and serve – and the paying public eats – their creations. It was months after my tour of the kitchen classes before I had the nerve to say again casually that I can cook; I was relieved to see that I shared at least one thing with good cooks: I clean constantly while preparing food thanks, perhaps, to the advice of my father the chemist.
Culinary camp is nothing if not organized. Each day the class divides up into teams that produce a variety of dished using the techniques.Day one introduces the basic flavoring agents (mirepoix, etc.) used in making stocks and sauces, making and using thickening agents such as a roux of butter and flour, and sauteing the use of small amounts of fat with controlled heat . Day two is for soup making, exploring the various thick soups and clear, and the uses of stir-frying and pan frying. Day three is for dry heat cooking methods: roasting, broiling, and grilling, and the introduction of wines. Day four is the day for moist heat cooking methods, from the low heat of braising, steaming and poaching to the high heat of simmering and boiling, and the introduction to developing a menu for a meal. Day five is the final demonstration/exam.
A bonus for students is the evening meal, after a strenuous day of cooking, to relax at a dinner in one of the Institute’s four restaurants. St. Andrews Café serves healthy foods with a menu that includes seared tuna cake appetizer with pickled ginger, pan seared salmon with saffron paradelle swerved with spinach and feta, and a chocolate cake for dessert.
The Escoffier Restaurant, as the name implies, is the place for formal French service and menu. A consomme with truffles and vegetables is followed by a cold salad of lobster, avocado and beets with mango dressing. The entrée is a seared halibut fillet set over a mound of spinach and sauced with in a beurre blanc. For dessert, the cheese course, is a mountain goat cheese from the Loire, served with a red wine.
The American Bounty Restaurant specializes in regional dishes and local ingredients. A fricassee of Maine lobster is served with garlic orzo custard and a Canadian yellow split pea soup made with smoked potatoes and served with chive sticks. Roasted mushroom and swiss cheese strudel is served with braised pumpkin, creamed spinach and lentils.
The last dinner is at the Ristorante Caterina de’ Medici for contemporary Italian cuisine. Thinly sliced tuna in olive oil, capers, green olives, lemon, parsley, red onion and diced jalapeno chilies. Grilled lamb chops rubbed with rosemary and served with caponata (eggplant and tomato). Dessert is a moist fruit upside down cake.
The Escoffier Restaurant, as the name implies, is the place for formal French service and menu. A consomme with truffles and vegetables is followed by a cold salad of lobster, avocado and beets with mango dressing. The entrée is a seared halibut fillet set over a mound of spinach and sauced with in a beurre blanc. For dessert, the cheese course, is a mountain goat cheese from the Loire, served with a red wine.
The American Bounty Restaurant specializes in regional dishes and local ingredients. A fricassee of Maine lobster is served with garlic orzo custard and a Canadian yellow split pea soup made with smoked potatoes and served with chive sticks. Roasted mushroom and swiss cheese strudel is served with braised pumpkin, creamed spinach and lentils.
The last dinner is at the Ristorante Caterina de’ Medici for contemporary Italian cuisine. Thinly sliced tuna in olive oil, capers, green olives, lemon, parsley, red onion and diced jalapeno chilies. Grilled lamb chops rubbed with rosemary and served with caponata (eggplant and tomato). Dessert is a moist fruit upside down cake.
If the book doesn't inspire you to brush up your kitchen skills, look at the photographs of food in preparation. The French essayist Michel de Montaigne wrote about sex: "Is not man truly a brute to consider the act that created him brutish?" The idea applies equally to food: if eating is one of life's great pleasures and necessities, what does it mean if we can't find time for cooking and take no pleasure in the task?












Sunny Day on The Marsh, Newburyport, 1860s by Martin Johnson Heade






